Fogbow

The Largest Island on the Largest Lake on the Largest Island on the Largest Lake in the World

It started as an innocent, non-threatening lark. I would hike and paddle my way to the largest island on the largest lake on the largest island on the largest lake in the world, which also happens to be in the middle of the least visited national park in the lower 48 states. A virtual Russian nesting doll of idiocy, adventure, or maybe both.

Located in Lake Superior (the aforementioned largest lake) north of Michigan’s rugged Upper Peninsula, Isle Royale National Park (the largest island on that lake) boasts huge swaths of lush hardwood forests, more than 160 miles of rugged backcountry hiking trails, and thousands of stately moose. Isle Royale’s so large that it even has its own lakes, the largest of which is Siskiwit Lake, roughly midway between the two main ranger stations, Rock Harbor to the east and Windigo to the west. Reaching Ryan Island, the largest piece of land on Siskiwit, would be my goal.

Just as concerning was the route. My original idea had been for us to paddle southwest to Chippewa Harbor, with just a couple of short portages slowing us on our way north to Ryan Island. But more experienced paddlers quickly talked me out of it. There’s a reason sailors and kayakers call Lake Superior “the Boss,” and it has nothing to do with Tony Danza or Bruce Springsteen. Powerful waves can make paddling Lake Superior difficult on even the most pleasant of days, and the weather always has the potential to turn from terrific to terrifying in a matter of moments. Paddling to Chippewa Harbor on this trip would require approximately a six-mile paddle on exposed water, with few places to seek shelter if Lake Superior decided to flex its muscles.

Complicating matters more was my boat choice. This time around, I wouldn’t be piloting a traditional 16-foot sea kayak; instead, I’d be in an origami boat. Yes, you read that right. If you’re not familiar, Oru kayaks are pretty amazing. Made of tough, corrugated plastic, the lightweight boats fold up to the size of a grade-schooler’s desktop. I chose the Beach LT model because it was relatively lightweight (making the planned portages easier) and could haul all my needed gear to basecamp. But against a Lake Superior squall, it likely wouldn’t stand a chance.